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As I posted a while back, surfing can be a dangerous sport.
Just the other day I took a nasty fall while trying to pull into a barrel. My board shot out in front of me and then I landed on it. I hit my thumb on a fin and then my right thigh slammed into the tail of the board. Needless to say it hurt. Don’t worry my board is fine, my thumb is getting better but my thigh isn’t looking so hot. You may not want to click here The Nanny Diaries psp
if you are squeemish or are offended by man thigh. Click at your own risk!
Jeff was this the result from this last Sunday when we was out front? Dude just think if you had your Thruster when you received that blow! We would be looking at Hospital pic’s. Your lucky this didnt happen last Thursday when it was over head!
My first reaction is to call you a “kook” or something but seeing as I am leaving Friday for a 2 week surf trip in Bali, I won’t do that. That’s right, I said Bali. This has been a dream come true for me. I have wanted to go to Bali since I was 17. It only took 29 years but God is faithful. I have rented a house on Uluwatu and me daughter is meeting me there and …. the ASP will be Ulu’s while I am there, so I get to see Slater, the Iron’s, Taj, the Hobgoods surf one of the best waves in the world.
Don’t hate me. Maybe you will get to go when you are 46. But I will pray you get to go before that if you will pray that what happened to you doesn’t happen to me.
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